Progress where once there was none..

“The beast from the east”, “Snowpocalypse 2018” – call it what you will. But we all know that to which I refer.

I called it”Damned inconvenient”, given that a large volume of snow in a short period of time wreaked havoc with my plans for automotive progress.

We left off the last blog with 3 inconvenient truths:

1. The Toledo needed work for its MOT, and time was running low for the 10 day retest.

2. “It was the wrong driveshaft Gromit” for the good lady’s Clio 172

3. The other Clio 172 needed the rear brakes sorting, should it wish to continue in service.

The obvious place to start was in repaiing the car with no MOT or gearbox oil..

Brutha_touring had managed to source a used driveshaft with sound gaitor for Babette (#54). All that lay between us and success was some snow.

Luckily, it was not yet frozen, so could be shovelled out of the way.

Fitting the new driveshaft was relatively simple, due to multiple practice runs. She was back together in relatively short order.

That done we gingerly moved her out of the space in front of the house, and down to the “waiting projects holding cell”.

It was now dark, and cold. Ideal brake fettling weather!

With #60 moved into position, the carrier was stripped, and the 30mm retaining nut holding the disc removed.

It was not pretty! An obvious failure of the disc across the bell and friction areas that appeared to have been some time in the making.

Time for the new disc

We called it a night at that.

The next day it was time for the passenger rear. All in all, a simple repair.

This done it was test drive time.

Almost immediately, it was obvious that the right rear caliper was sticking on – and it’s likely that was at least partially to blame for the disc failure.

Oh well, time for a strip down and clean.

The dust boot round the piston was poor, and the piston itself was dirty.

We got it wound out (lefty loosey), removed the seal and cleaned everything up with brake cleaner. We replaced the seal with a better spare one and wound the piston back in.

The sliders were not in great shape – they need to be if the floating caliper set up is to work correctly.

Between the ones on the car and spares from a second caliper, we got the best pair sorted and cleaned.

Some reassembly followed by spirited testing revealed a working setup that didn’t constantly drag.

I was now up to one working car!

Aiming for a doubling of working fleet size, it was the Toledo’s turn for fettling.

I’d already sorted the failure for incorrect headlight pattern by fitting the passenger bulb retaining clip correctly. That left 3 things.

“Parking brake lever insecure”

Resolved by tightening the two 13mm bolts holding the lever to the floor.

“Offside front coil spring broken”

Out again with the dugga dugga, and off with the 3 nuts/bolts (21mm top, 19mm strut onto hub).

Aye that’s buggered.

Judicious application of screwdriver and torx drive = deconstructed strut.

Repair and replacement was the reverse of removal.

Lastly, “rear brake load sensing valve siezed”

This is a common failure for there sorts of car – it only really comes into play if the car has heavy loads in the boot – not an everyday occurrence, so they stick.

Some remonstrating fluid and wiggling later, we had a moving load sensing valve.

Shortly thereafter, I was in receipt of a pleasingly clean piece of paper.

It was pressed into use the very next day, but that’s for another post!


Fffffffleet frustrations..

After last weekend’s success, I was keen to continue with progress in an attempt to move at least two of the fleet towards their MOT.

First up was the Toledo.

I got to the garage nice and early, replaced the headlight bulb that had failed and set off for the station.

About half way there, there was a *BANG* from the front end.

The car felt ok so I carried on, and got it in for a test.

It failed.

The front driver’s spring had failed. Lucky I got two then..

Its up in the air and prepped for stripping when I get a free day.

I got the headlight bulb aligned properly (the clip had popped off) and used some penetrating fluid on the apparently sticking load compensation valve for the rear brakes.

The only fault that could be problematic is the “handbrake lever insecure”. This seems a common fault on MK2/3 golf floorpan cars. The usual repair seems to involve welding, but a lack of power at the garage may need an alternative solution to be found.

Not too bad but more work to do.

Then it was on to the burd’s Clio 172.

A split inner CV boot meant lashings of gearbox oil everywhere bar the gearbox.

The easiest option seemed to be a new driveshaft, and I procured one from eBay.

We got the 30mm nut on the hub end of the driveshaft loosened before jacking up the car.

Car up in the air and we decided the trick was to take off the bolts between the balljoint and bottom arm.

A bit of tippy tappy and removal of the 3 13mm retaining bolts at the gearbox end had it out easily enough.

Then it was time to fit the new one.

Before buying it, I’d double checked with the vendor that it would fit, as the car is a ph1 172 made in the year they changed to the ph2. I provided the reg number and explained all this, recieving assurance that it was correct.

Ehh, that’s not the same fucking part..

Refund being sought and the car is still on axle stands outside the house.

Still, Clio 172 Exclusive #60 was still faultless eh?


Good lady working til 4pm on Sunday. Called me to say leaving work, and should be about 30mins.


Me: *pauses scrapheap challenge* “Hullo?”

GL: “Hi, thecarwentbangandnowwontmove”

Me: “OK, are you alright?”

GL: “I’m fine, I managed to get the car to the side of the road”

Me: “OK, I’ll see if I can scare a lift up and come to get you”

*Cut to scene of doors being knocked and neighbours helping out*

When I got there I had a cursory look under the car at the front.

Luckily no gearbox oil or hanging driveshafts were to be seen. Working round to the back, It rapidly became apparent what had happened.

The driver’s rear disc had failed and locked up the caliper. This had jammed the wheel, causing the car to slow rapidly.

Nothing for it but to call the RAC.

They were out pretty quickly, and got the wheel off.

It looks like there was a crack in the disc, and the rear caliper had stuck on, causing the disc to heat and shear.


On the Clio, the rear discs bolt onto a stub axle. This means that the bell of the disc holds the bearing, and is the only thing the rear wheel is bolted to.

Understandably, both I and the RAC chap were reticent to tow it with the rear wheels on the road. His computer said he could not rear tow.

He radio’d in for a flatbed.

An hour later, this turned up.

A spec-lift.


I told the chap the situation, and we looked over the car to see if anything obvious would cause a problem. Couldn’t see anything.

So she was trussed up and towed home no problem.

Rear discs and pads have been ordered to go with the fronts that were booked in for the weekend.

Let’s hope we get something done next weekend.

I’m off to potter about in an E60

Spring has sprung – A good start to the weekend!

Today was a day for success. It had been decided.
I met my Brother and Split_Pin of this here parish at the Fu’Gutty shack and we set to work.
First job was to apply the uggadugga (buzz gun) to the topmount bolt.

With this slackened off we could turn our attention to the bolts holding the hub to the strut.
Application of a short breaker bar had them moving and free in no time.
Pulling it off the car was simple and allowed inspection of the obvious issue.

The topmount was removed, and the spring seat split off.
I had bought 2 new springs, and will likely do the drivers and possibly swap the struts for new once an MOT has been achieved.

Judicious use of the uggadugga saw the new spring compressed and fitted in jig time

That done it was time for a pre MOT checkup.
All this revealed was a need for an H1 headlamp bulb and the fact that the strike plates for the lights in the bootlid needed cleaning to give foglamps and reversing lights.
It’s 1 bulb away from being in for an MOT

Today also saw some working on the 172 Exclusive #60.
Having dropped it’s backbox on the way home from getting the drivers driveshaft replaced, it’s only had an exhaust to the rear axle.
I’d skooshed the mount bolts and the nuts on the c clamp for the sleeve join with Remonstrating fluid earlier in the week and had high hopes..

This was the sight that greeted me – it’d obvious had at least 1 replacement mount before as it was fixed with a mix of 13mm and 8mm headed bolts.
All the bolts came out cleanly, and a new ‘ uprated’ mount was fitted. The stock rubber aftermarket ones fail far too easily, so polyurethane was the way to go!

Happily, the c clamp nuts loosened off fine, and the backbox mated right up. 10mins start to finish.

We then went for a well deserved coffee to warm up, and I managed to grab a pic of the Shree Motahs:)


An unusual weekend..

About this time, folks will be expecting another update on where more fresh air was found on the Oxford. Not this time:)

In fact, I was nowhere near the Oxford all weekend. Instead, I worked on some of the forgotten fleet in an effort to get closer to having several working cars.

First to garner some attention was the mighty Seat Toledo MK1. It’s been languishing in my lock up in need of a new spring at the front left.

I got it shuffled over hard against the RHS, and flopped my carcass out the passenger door.

This gave plenty room to work on the front left.

She was jacked up and supported, then I had a perusal to confirm my suspicions.

This strut was used in lots of VAG models – a trooper of a design.

Snap. Wan deed spring. A quick trip to the virtual shop sees two new ones winging their way to me as I write.

All that was left to do was soak everything in penetrating (fnar) fluid in the hope of a simple stripdown when the springs arrive.

Next up was the #60 Exclusive. In the last 10 days or so, it’s had a new driveshaft (drivers side) and a new starter motor. It’s also dropped it’s backbox and had a hanging idle.

The rear exhaust mount has failed, so that’ll need stripping off, but thankfully the end of the centre pipe looks clean and intact, so I should be able to reinstall the previous chavtastic backbox.

Additionally, I discovered that the hanging revs were caused by the intake boot not being fitted properly to the throttle body – obviously, I’d failed when fitting it in the dark.

Loosening the jubilee clip, reseating the pipe and retighten has got it idling normally.

Lastly, I found (in the spare wheel well!) The original fuse cover, and refitted it.

I also got a look at #54 exclusive, and have discovered the source of the gearbox oil leak. It’s taken since mid Dec to get a look at this – there’s always been snow or water on the ground, which I wasn’t up for lying on.

This should be flush with the gearbox..

I also had a scout round the rest of it as it needs an MOT. Obvious things are

2x front tyres

New handbrake cables

An exhaust mount

And a damn good clean

Additionally, she’ll need new spark plugs, as hers were swapped to get #60 working.

Speaking again of #60, I had the opportunity to go out for a wee drive along with a mate on Sunday –

Good roads, and good times! Also made me realise why I like these wee Clios so much!


Clio Cranking Capers

A ditty about the joys* of getting Clio sports to start..

Today. Was. The. Day

Up early, having arranged to work from home.

Called RAC.


Waited some more

RAC arrived and checked it all out. Starter motor not playing ball even when contacts powered directly.


Called up one starter motor place ,”leave it with me 10 mins”

Call back 12 mins later.
“Ah’ve no got tae it yet”

Phone second starter motor place “£120 supplied and fitted plus a year guarantee”

Says I, “when could you do the work?”

Says he, “bring it roon ranoo”

We bump start it and I drop it off.

20mins later get a call from an employee there to see if I wanted to sell the car. Say “No”.

Call a couple of hours later (just to see if it would be tomorrow as have borrowed parent_touring’s CRV)

“We’ve got the motor off, it’s burned out – looks as if it has stuck on. We’re finding the correct motor for you now, as yours is a 9tooth, not the usual 11tooth. We’ll also check the ignition wiring to make sure nothing is shorting out.”

“Ok, cheers” says I.

Some hours pass.

Brrring brrring “Hullo, ats yer wee Clio ready mate, nae wiring faults fun”

I telephone a taxi.

A Civic EP2 diesel turns up.

“Ah took this Tae the Ross Auto for a starter on Friday err, thems guid cunts” said the driver.

I smile, nodding and grunting as appropriate. Pay my fare.

Go intae the shop, boy says “ahh, the auld heid came in useful err, ah says Tae them, if it’s a 9 tooth, it’s a Bosch motor, they walloped wan in and away she goes”

I count out 6 twenties and wait until my hand written invoice is produced.

Keys are proffered and accepted.

Plipper plipped, door opened.

Seatbelt on, key to start.

The f4r barks to life.

Select reverse, align car with exit.

Select first.





Continuing (Oxford) Traveller Trials..

If there’s one thing I’ve learned about my mate John as he’s helped me with the Oxford, it’s this:

When he asks a question, be afraid.

I landed at his workshop on Sunday morning and was greeted with “you know how you thought it might need a patch on the wheel arch?”

My heart sank.


Thats the bonnet release handle you can see in the middle of the largest hole.

Application of both wire wheel and grinder suggested much metal needed let in where daylight currently proliferated.

As can be seen, at least 2 large sections to patch, plus a box section to make up.

Tickman’s chopper

Luckily, we’d stocked up on gas and wire, and still had plenty sheet metal.

The real issue was how we were going to get the compound curve we needed for the main patch on the arch.

Whilst we considered our options, it was time to start doing the simple panels – first up, a nice rectangular panel to fill in the lower part of the arch.

This went in fairly well, and started to re introduce strength into the panel.

Next up was the box section panel at the top of the inner wing.

This was a tricky panel (for me at least) as it mainly had to be formed once on the car. This was done with a flat chisel and hammer.

I’m glad to say it went on well!

As I was doing this, John was tackling the non-existent sill at the jacking point.

As soon as the wire brush touched the jacking point, it was obvious it would have to come off.

At this point we broke for lunch ( via Tesco for plasters due to an encounter with an errant grinder)

We met with my brother at lunch, and upon our return he did some investigative work on the body seams running under the rear side windows.

These were cleaned back with a rust remover wheel from Halfords – not as vicious as a wire wheel, but more abrasive than sandpaper. Highly recommended.

Some Vactan was added and they were left to dry before further work.

I’m glad they’re solid – the rear bodywork is an area of concern for me as it’s bespoke to the ‘all steel’ traveller.

I made the final piece for the wheelarch – and kept it in the family by using a piece of Minor outer wing as the patch for the Oxford inner wing.

This saved a lot of panel working and looks pretty neat. John welded the tricky bits, and I reckon we may need to fill in a bit when we next see it.

Suffice to say, it’s a lot more solid than when we started.

But that’s not all.

As John was swearing at the front arch, my brother and I turned our attention to the rear of the car.

The spare wheel well door aperture had some significant rust showing, so we decided to get stripping and see what we had.

The first less than pleasant discovery was the “Giffer” approach to sealing – using a foam insulation strip originally designed for use in the home.

The key area of concern was along the lower lip, especially where the two door retaining pins were located.

As can be seen, it looks like reasonable metal with a trowel full of filler slapped on.


We needed from improve access so the towbar and bumper had to come off.

The bumper bolts came undone freely, and the side fixing screws unwound well.

The towbar was somewhat more obstreperous, but was cajoled off.

Some initial wire brushing seemed to show metal – I think the plan will be to strip back and treat it with Vactan.

That was enough for the day so we retired to cars with heaters, and the schlep home.


Maroon Mullered Motah Removal

Saturday saw the Fu’Gutty crew do an unusual thing – we got the opportunity to work on a car that didn’t belong to us.

Iain, who assisted with Toledo and Oxford cleaning has a 1.0 Vauxhall Corsa with a mardy engine.

The natural habitat of the 1.0 3 banger

The engine was toast, and he had a new unit that needed fitting.

The new wan

Iain had managed to get all the wiring removed and the coolant drained. The radiator was also pulled from the engine bay.

This meant we were able to set directly to the task of removing the engine.

The engine is held on the drivers side by a mount from the side of the engine to the chassis leg.

As seems to be the case with most other fastenings on the car, these require female torx sockets to remove (at the engine side). The chassis leg section is just two bolts.

Off, AFF

At the gearbox side, the gearbox is responsible for holding the engine up. Disconnecting all the gearbox bolts meant that we had an engine that was ready to pull.

Initially, due to a problem with the engine crane, we tried lifting it via a bar across the wings.

This didn’t work. The methodical one amongst us (Brutha_touring) decided to build up the engine crane and ‘persuade’ it to operate.

After some work bleeding and pumping the ram, we had an operational crane. And a happy Iain.

Man conquers engine

This left the engine bay with plenty room for cleaning and fettling- and the gearbox remains in place along with the driveshafts.

Over his ownership, this little 1.0 3cyl lump had received a fair selection of new parts, and it was decided that they should be swapped to the new engine as they were ‘known good’.

But first a break for lunch.

Suitably refreshed by coffee and French Toast, it was time to get tore into building up the new engine.

First task was to remove the clutch, so we could liberate a flywheel.

The clutch will be replaced by new.

The new engine was out of an automatic car (can you imagine how slow a 1.0 auto Corsa is?!) So we need to swap the flywheel from the old onto the new. Unfortunately this job cannot be done until we have replacement bolts for the flywheel, as they are single use.

They’re on order and should be here soon.

We also checked the new engine to make sure the input shaft front he gearbox would fit ( on our e30s there is usually a bearing in manual engines that is not there for auto).

All seemed the same, so it was time to get onto the cleaning.

Much mank was removed by Iain whilst we removed components from the old lump.

Once cleaned, the new engine got built with the known good parts,

All done, it was time to pack up for the day.

Iain has his list of chores to do (mainly cleaning and flywheel fitting) before we attempt to fit the engine and see if it runs.


Oxford Bodywork Continuum.

We left the last installment of the trials of Bodicea as our heroine appeared to have been mortally wounded..

The next stage would see the arrival of two mortals, armed with the Mage’s knowledge of sparkly stick wieldery. They were known only as “The Twa Torches”.

They didn’t take many pictures for they were too busy applying metal to where there was none.

At times, both sparkly sticks were active at the same time, though the streams never crossed, thankfully.

Here’s how we dragged her back from the abyss.

We started off my seam welding the sill panels that had been puddle welded in the last session. The weld was roughly ground back in preparation for more panels to be added.

There was method in the madness re the panel being short..

There was a LOT of welding in this, and for a novice like I, it took quite some time to shape and get placed correctly. We’d made the replacement in two pieces to avoid vibrations from large single sections of flat sheet. Plus it gave me even more welding experience.

In a pincer movement, the second wielder of sparkly stick was lancing some puss filled boils to the rear.

There is a ‘boxing in ‘ panel to the side of the spring hanger which appears to have been left open from the factory.

After 59 years, a fair amount of road detritus had built up.

This is not a brick, it’s road dirt!

Obviously, such accumulation brought with it an exceptional knowledge of chemistry, and Lo! The rust monster was born!

The only hope for it was to cut it all out and start again.

Like the front, the inner sill was but a memory, but luckily the mid sill had remembered it’s purpose in life, putting up a strong defence against the Rust Monster.

Once the sill was functional, the jigsaw of panels could be let back in, with John proving to have a flair for floors.

That completed, it was time to tidy up and admire the success of the operation.

Many many pounds of multiple patchings, rust and dirt had been removed. In its place sat fresh metal!

The patient is now in the high dependency ward, but at least she’s now stable..

There is more to be done. Much more!


Oxford bodywork begins

We’ve had plenty progress on the Morris over the last couple of weekends – many thanks to those who have assisted.

The biggest task was starting on the bodywork – all 4 corners of the floor were pretty crispy – and indeed of work to make them water tight.

First up, a look at the task ahead – it was pretty obvious we needed to go heavy on this. The old Asbestos heatshield for the exhaust has trapped many many years worth of wet road dirt and done it’s worst!

In for a penny, in for a pound, so out with the grinder and let’s see how much we need to remove to get back to clean, solid metal.

Ahh, that’s a fair bit…

Time for more of an inspection.

The lack of mid- sill and inner sill was problematic,

We got the edges all cleaned and trimmed up – the car had at least 4 layers of patches in areas, so plenty time was lost chopping out crap.

We made up some panels to join the mid sill to the bottom seam where all 3 meet.

I did my first ever welding on a car –

We had to make fairly small panels, to allow us to support and straighten the bottom sill joins.

Eventually we got them all in place

The next thing to do was fit the outer sill we had made

To get this far took approx 6hrs working.

Once again, many many thanks are due to Tickman for his help and guidance – there is plenty still to do, but it’s going in the right direction!


Oxford sits it’s first exams

After Saturday’s initial clean and inspection, it was time for Bodicea (she’s been named that by the Burd as “she’s aww boady”) to head north to a friend’s garage for a thorough examination.

The tank was brimmed (a rather surprising 24.78mpg) and she was parked up on Saturday evening.

I think my Brother likes it!

Sunday arrived with a vengeance! -8 degrees and the need to defrost the door lock to get into the car.

Once inside it was no better – the inside of the windows were frozen. Luckily, a bit of choke and some throttle got the B series to fire, and she sat happily on the choke whilst I scraped.

The roads were a touch slippy,  so it was slow and steady progress to the rendezvous point with my Brother for breakfast.

One of these is “fast and cool as fuck”, another is just “as cool as fuck” and the third has a reefer unit

Suitably fed, we headed northwards. About 90 mins later, we arrived at our mate John’s workshop. It’s the ideal kind of place for working on such a car, as he has an eclectic mix of cars, and all the tools to suit..

Did I mention that the unit is seriously cool?

It was -3 in the unit, so that aided and abetted some rapid working.
In no time she was up on axle stands and ready for perusal

At the rear end, the news was decent.

No cracked springs, axle looked ok (if a touch leaky) and the floor was in decent shape but had been patched.

There’s a fair bit of rot at the rear of the arches but the main parts of the arch are solid.

This was not unexpected as she’s 59 years old! The intention will be to clean it all up and repair where required before painting and coating in wax to protect it.

Next up was a look at the rear dampers, as the car became unsettled going over bumps.

I suspect they are not in their first flush of use, so I’ll be seeking replacements.

We moved along the sills, not finding too much to worry about – plenty of sound, solid metal, and a modicum of surface rust.

Both front footwells are rough – especially along the sill sides and where they (used to) join to the wheelwell/bulkhead area.

On the passenger side, this is exacerbated by the original fitment asbestos heatshield. Over the years it has trapped plenty of mud and water, significantly rotting the floor.

We’re not too concerned re these areas as they are flat, square easy to access panels!

it’s a C for structural intergrity.

Next up was the brakes – having never driven and ‘all drum’ car before, I have to say I was less than enamored by Bodicea’s powers of stopping.

There was a squeal from the front right at low speed, and a fair amount of pedal travel before anything happened.

Off with the hubcaps and wheels then, discovering that the drivers front tyre was more like a 50p than a circle. That’ll be the wobble from the front end then.

We started at the rear. The handbrake mechanism was moving freely on both sides, so we decided to pull off the drums and check the shoe and cylinder condition.

This was good news all round.

We donned protective masks as we were unsure of the age of components – and don’t want to inhale any asbestos dust that may be present.

The drum retaining screws came out cleanly, and the drums pulled off (exhibiting no discernible lip).

The cylinders on both sides were clean, dry and functional.

The adjustors rotated through their full range after some light cleaning, and the drums and shoes were lightly scuffed with sandpaper to clean them up.

The drums were refitted and the shoes adjusted to just drag slightly.

The fronts were much the same ( bar being twin leading shoe, with 2 cylinders per drum)

The only noticeable difference was a couple of missing ‘beehive’ shoe retaining springs – a likely cause of the squeal from the front as the shoes moved during use.

The cylinders, shoes and drums were all in good condition, so only some retaining springs required, and I’ll order them up.

With the shoes adjusted, the pedal feel of the car was improved too, so it’s a B for brakes (Geddit!?).

The next job was also brake related.
Prior to my purchase, the hydraulically operated brake light switch failed, meaning that the brake lights were always on.

The switch works by using the movement of fluid when the pedal is depressed to fill the switch and complete the circuit.

But in this instance, it was operated by a dash mounted switch.

You can just about see the old switch in the centre of the picture.

Handily, the switch is located at the front of the engine bay, providing unfettered access for removal.

Not so handy are the myriad tales of brake line damage as the switch rotates the whole T piece due to years of detritus welding them together.

Such tales rang in my ears as I doused the switch in penetrating oil over a couple of days. Today was the acid test.

We braced against the inner wing with one pry bar, and used a hammer head beside the engine mount to brace the other side of the switch. Application of a socket and ratchet, plus a few muttered prayers lead to a successful removal of the old switch!

The new one was fitted, wired up and tested as working. Tremendous

Shiny switch of much illuminating goodness

The state of the old switch clearly shows that the cause was mingin brake fluid.

This should be hollow in the middle, not hingin!

A decision was taken to bleed the brakes though with new fluid – easily done by pouring the fresh fluid onto the floor.

Well, not onto, more into!

Floor mounted fabulous filler

At the same time, the gearbox oil level was checked using the handy dipstick.

I got a pic of it once wiped clean as it is a lovely looking thing!

At the same time this shrnanigry was occuring, my brother was making significant progress under the bonnet.

In the course of the day, he got both horn units out and tested, checked the wiring and relay, and cleaned the contacts. This resulted in a strident “GET OUT MY WAY” from the front of the car.

Lucas Windtones are a sound to behold.

He also got the fan unit remounted, and wired the now redundant dash mounted brake light to provider a supply to the fan.

We now have warm air capable of being wafted at screen or passengers at will.

These two things make a huge difference to the viability of using this car in anger – a clear screen and the ability to communicate one’s presence are key!

Further to this, a level of water repellent capability for the windscreen was much craved – internal water features, despite being an attractive feature, are not conducive to pleasant driving conditions.

The old sealant was removed, in preparation for application of the new.

Most of this delicate job was left to the man with a history of driving a caulking gun. He was also responsible for the innovative* lighting solution.

We took her out for a test drive.

Fitting the new spare to the front drivers side has solved most of the low speed wobble.

The brake pedal is much more positive, but the car still pulls to the left – more adjustment and the correct shoe retaining springs should sort that.

Having functioning heating and brake lights has significantly improved and simplified the driving experience, and the ability to shock pedestrians using the horn never grows old.

That’s a B+ for driveability!

We returned to base and had my welder set up and tested – it will soon be used in anger!

And there she rests until the next time..